Yes, just like original equipment units, all of our drives are designed to work on either side of your machine because they have two case drain ports, so there’s no need to specify left or right side when ordering. However, if you do tell us, we can go ahead and have the drain port set for the appropriate side for faster/easier installation.
Yes, we find that most of our customers do self-installations, but it’s always your decision based on what you feel is safe and comfortable for you. It’s simply a matter of disconnecting the hoses, loosening your tracks, removing your old sprocket, and unbolting the drive from the frame and sliding it out from the track side. Then just reverse the process for installing the new drive. Our drives range from 35 pounds up to 225 pounds, so, depending on the size of your machine, you may need help and/or hoisting equipment for a safe installation. If you aren’t sure about the condition of the hydraulics or undercarriage of your machine, you’ll want to consult a specialist to ensure everything else is in order, because a problem with either of those can damage your drive.
The majority of our drives are under 150lbs and can be shipped to the doorstep of any house or business in a heavy duty cardboard box using FedEx expedited services. For larger machines we use FedEx freight, and that is noted in the product listing. All of our drives ship out of our warehouse in central North Carolina, with an average arrival time of 2-3 days. Please allow extra time for delivery during the typical holiday rush period of October-December and during any severe weather events or other national disruptions.
We accept returns within 30 days of delivery. Please contact us to discuss your reason for return and to receive an RMA. Please see our return policy for more details.
We are confident in the quality of our drives and have the best warranty in the industry! All new excavator final drives are covered against defects in workmanship for 2 years, unlimited hours. All new compact track loader and skid steer drives are covered against defects in workmanship for 1 year, unlimited hours. After the initial warranty period, you are covered for life at 15%, non-prorated. This coverage includes the cost of shipping and the cost of the replacement/repair for warranty eligible failures. It does not cover your time and labor to remove/reinstall, nor any other consequential damages. It does not cover damage from clogged filters, hydraulic contamination/over-pressurization, lack of maintenance, or physical damage from misuse like stripped threads or cracked housings or flanges. You must return the drive to us factory sealed and untampered - if you or anyone else disassembles or attempts to service the drive, the warranty is immediately voided. Contact us if you have any questions about our warranty or read our warranty policy.
Yes, all of our excavator drives are configured for two-speed capability for any machines that were equipped as such from the manufacturer. For machines that are originally equipped as single speed, we will configure the drive to be compatible. For compact track loader and skid steer drives, the particular speed capabilities are outlined in the product listings.
No! Our purchase process is a straightforward outright purchase. You can keep your old unit, and there are never any core charge deposits or returns required.
Yes, many of our customers replace just one side of the machine to keep costs down. Just keep in mind that you may have some performance difference when matching a fresh new drive on one side with an older, worn one on the other side. In general, the newer generation of drives put more hydraulic energy into torque, which is what people want for using the blade, etc - this means a new drive might actually travel a bit slower than the original because of the consumption of energy for torque reserve. If you can fit it in your budget to replace both sides, that’s ideal, and odds are the other one will fail soon. We offer a discount if you purchase a pair; just contact us for more details.
No, unless your machine has been modified or customized since original, we will ensure that the drive we send will either have the same porting as the original so you can reuse your original adapters, or we will include, at no cost, a set of any needed adapters where there might be a difference from the original.
When you see “OEM Direct Fit” in our listing, this signifies that the drive is latest version built by the same drive manufacturer who built the drives for the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM), so you can be assured that the drive will fit, connect, and perform as well or better than the original. “Aftermarket” designates that the drive is built for us by a different manufacturer than the original, but you can be assured we have designed it to fit and connect easily like the original, and the quality will be as good or better than your original.
No, we only sell complete units with both the hydraulic travel motor and final drive gearbox pre-assembled and ready to bolt on. The reality is that for mini excavators it would normally actually cost more to sell these components separately and then rejoin/reseal the units. Plus, you wouldn’t get the warranty coverage offered by a complete new drive.
Yes, we do offer local pickup by appointment if paid in advance by credit card or by cash in person (we don’t accept checks). All items picked up at our facility are subject to 7% NC Sales Tax, no exceptions, unless you have an E595 exemption certificate. Please contact us to discuss arranging pickup in advance and to schedule an appointment (it can take several hours to prep a drive before delivery to the customer).
Yes, all our drives are prefilled with gear oil from the factory. We do recommend that you check and top off the drive before operation just for precaution and to get accustomed to this important process.
Yes, some of our products list coupon codes for lower cost aftermarket or generic units (see product listings for details). Additionally, contact us to discuss quantity discounts if you wish to purchase multiple drives for a machine or your fleet.
There are many factors here, but let’s start first by saying that our drives offer unbeaten quality, fit, and performance that is as good or better than your original equipment. So compare our prices to your dealer, and you’ll see we are often as much as half or a third of the cost, which is a great bargain! There are also some appealing offers on the internet from all over the world, but you need to do a lot of due diligence and research as we get a lot of calls from people who have attempted to purchase those only to find they won’t fit, won’t connect, or have dramatically different speed or torque. We hear a lot of complaints about not being able to get the seller to support them or give them a refund without a ridiculous restocking fee. It pays to do your research! Call us if you have any questions; we’ll be glad to help!
The industry best practice is to set your tracks so that when that side of the machine is lifted, the track sags about 1.5-2” off the center roller. Running too tight will cause premature wear of the drive bearings, sprockets, rollers, and other undercarriage parts. Run them as loose as you can without them jumping off to maximize undercarriage life.
Large excavators are typically seen at construction sites doing everything from digging foundations to moving large concrete barriers. Mini excavators are ideal for small construction and landscaping jobs. Excavators have a boom, stick, and bucket and can rotate 360 degrees. The rotation is ideal for digging soil then moving it to a different location without having to drive. Uses for excavators include: landscaping, digging holes and trenches, lifting and moving heavy objects, demolishing structures, moving gravel, and debris removal.
If your excavator has stopped running, you will need to prepare it to load onto a trailer for transport to a garage. The method you use depends on the make and model of your excavator, as well as the resources available to you. The machine will need to be pulled onto a rollback or flatbed truck. To do that, the excavator will need to be placed in neutral and the tracks will need to “freewheel,” or roll without the gears engaged. This is dangerous. To avoid the risk of personal injury or damage to the equipment, it is best to call a tow company experienced in the transport of heavy equipment.
The house, or cab, of an excavator can rotate 360 degrees on its axis. The house sits on a swivel pin above the undercarriage, often referred to as a swivel joint. Hydraulic fluid is supplied through a series of shafts and hoses providing power that gives the machine the ability to swivel in all directions. The operator controls the movement of the cab through pedals, joysticks, and levers.
To grease excavator tracks, locate the cover plate that shields the grease fitting, or zerk, on the tracks. There will be one on each of the tracks. Loosen the bolts on the cover plate and open the cover. First, use a clean, dry cloth to wipe any excess grease from the zerk. If the grease fitting is plugged up with grease, you may need to replace the fitting.Attach the grease gun hose to the zerk, and pump two times, or as needed, for adequate grease. Do not over grease. Wipe away any excess grease. Refer to your operator’s manual for additional information.
A final drive motor powers the tracks on your excavator. The final drive is comprised of two halves: the hydraulic travel motor and the final drive gearbox. The travel motor, powered by the main hydraulic pump, engages a shaft that runs through the gearbox. The gearbox reduces the speed from the shaft, which increases the torque needed to rotate the track sprocket. The sprocket then turns the track to move the excavator.
In short, the hydraulic filter removes foreign particles from the hydraulic fluid. The filter continuously removes contaminants from the hydraulic oil, purifying the hydraulic fluid, and protecting the hydraulic system components from damage due to contamination. The hydraulic filter should be changed as part of regular maintenance. Refer to the operator’s manual for a schedule.
One step during a hydraulic system flush is to clean the hydraulic reservoir. The flushing process should remove most of the contaminants, but additional cleaning may be necessary. After the initial draining of the hydraulic system, use a lint-free cloth to clean as much of the reservoir as you can reach.
If there is sludge remaining, you may need to conduct a chemical power flush using a power flushing rig. You should contact your local authorized heavy equipment dealer to determine if this is necessary.
Existing hoses in a hydraulic system will be cleaned during the hydraulic system flush process. However, new hoses can be installed during the flushing process, or hoses with excess sediment can be cleaned or flushed manually. Refer to your operator’s manual for instructions on how to remove and install hydraulic lines.Flushing the lines can be done several ways:
Install the hydraulic lines, and continue with the flushing process. As always, refer to your operator's manual and/or your local authorized dealer to ensure correct results.
As part of regular maintenance, it is important to change the hydraulic filter to keep your equipment running properly and to prevent the need for repairs later.
A complete hydraulic system flush of your Bobcat excavator may be required if:
A flush is primarily a double oil and filter change in combination with a cleaning. The following basic steps walk you through how to flush a hydraulic system. Every machine is different, so always make sure to refer to your operator’s manual for complete instructions on how to clean a hydraulic system.
If you are not confident conducting these steps yourself, contact your local authorized dealer for a complete hydraulic system flush.
Because water generally has a higher specific gravity than hydraulic fluid, it can settle in the bottom of the reservoir. In this case, you can get the water out of a hydraulic system via the following quick-drain process.
If the hydraulic oil is contaminated with water beyond its saturation level, it may be necessary to flush the system.
Refer to your operator’s manual for complete instructions for how to get water out of a hydraulic system.
Hydraulic machines, such as excavators, need hydraulic fluid to transfer energy within the equipment to enable work and motion. In other words, the hydraulic fluid allows the boom to raise and lower and the bucket to open and close. Hydraulic fluid also aids in lubrication, supports heat transfer and contamination removal, and inhibits corrosion.
Traditional, mineral-based hydraulic fluid is primarily a clear, golden, or yellowish color. Additives and dyes are sometimes added to certain brands leading to purple, green, and reds. During use, the hydraulic fluid will naturally darken from thermal stress and oxidation.
There are three main types of hydraulic fluid used today: petroleum-based, water-based, and synthetic. Petroleum-based, which is also called mineral-based, is comprised of 99% base oil derived from crude oil; whereas, synthetic hydraulic fluids contain 99% of a chemically produced base fluid. Esters, glycol, and silicone are common synthetics used in hydraulic fluids.
Water-based hydraulic fluids contain a water-glycol mix as the base. Water-based hydraulic fluids do not burn because they contain water and are used where high temperatures will be reached and fire resistance is important.Environmentally-friendly biodegradable hydraulic fluids made from vegetable oils are also available.
Hydraulic fluid additives are included to help the equipment perform under different conditions. For example, antifreeze additives are used to prevent hydraulic fluid from freezing. When, where, and how the hydraulic oil is used affects which additives go into which hydraulic fluids. Anti-wear, anti-oxidant, and anti-rust are common additives. Additives can be used singularly or combined to form different blends.
When selecting a hydraulic fluid, pay special attention to the additives to ensure you have the right oil for the job.
Prices of hydraulic fluids vary depending on type, geographic region, retailer, brands, and additives. However, generally speaking, synthetic hydraulic fluids are the most expensive, followed by mineral-based or petroleum-based, with water-based hydraulic oil typically being the least expensive. Refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations when determining which hydraulic fluid is best for the equipment and job.
Check with your Bobcat dealer for suggestions of where to buy the right hydraulic fluid for your excavator or other heavy equipment machinery. You can also check with heavy equipment dealers, tractor supply stores, auto parts stores, online dealers, and large retail stores to see if they have any Bobcat brand hydraulic fluid.
Dealers recommend using Bobcat brand hydraulic fluid for Bobcat mini excavators, excavators, and other Bobcat-made heavy equipment. The hydraulic fluid is a custom blend of base oils and additives designed to provide optimum flow and stability, even in extreme conditions. Check with your local dealer for alternatives.
The type of hydraulic fluid you need for your equipment depends on a variety of conditions, including environment, temperature, the make and model of your equipment, as well as personal preferences. To ensure you use the correct fluid for your product, refer to the operator’s manual, contact a local equipment dealer, or search online.
Hydraulic fluid should be changed regularly as part of a regular maintenance schedule or more often if your equipment is operating under harsh conditions. The time to change the fluid is often based on the hours of operation of the equipment. Refer to your operator’s manual for recommendations.
More than likely, hydraulic fluid will not cause any damage to car paint, and it can be cleaned off relatively easily. As with any spill, the sooner the oil is removed from the car the better. Take your car through a car wash for a thorough cleaning. Or, do it yourself by washing the car with a commercial car wash soap or a dishwashing liquid designated as a de-greaser. Use a new, clean sponge and make sure to wash the entire car.
To clean the windows of any remaining oily residue, use a solution of equal parts water and white vinegar.
Contact your local auto body shop for recommendations for a commercial car cleaner if hydraulic fluid remains after several washes. Always follow local ordinances when discarding the fluid residue.
Before checking the hydraulic fluid in an excavator, ensure the machine is parked on a level surface, is turned off, and that the engine is cold. Refer to the manufacturer’s recommendation for placement of the boom and bucket for a more accurate reading. Locate the hydraulic fluid tank and view the fluid level through the sight glass. The fluid should be between the minimum and maximum marks on the glass.
Before draining the hydraulic fluid in an excavator, ensure the machine is parked on a level surface, is turned off, and the engine is cold. Refer to the manufacturer’s recommendation for placement of the boom and bucket for stability.
Hydraulic fluid is most often added to the equipment after draining the tank and replacing the filter. Follow the manufacturers recommendations for the type and amount of hydraulic fluid to use.
It is important to act immediately for the best chance of completely removing hydraulic fluid after a spill. For a hydraulic spill on a porous material, such as a concrete floor that hasn’t been sealed, use the following process:
In the absence of a spill absorbent, clean, dry, absorbent cloths can be substituted. Use the cloths to wipe up the spill, then discard appropriately. If a stain remains after the liquid has been removed, pour a commercial degreaser over the stain and follow product instructions. Liquid detergent may also be used to remove the stain. Several applications may be needed. Always follow local ordinances when cleaning up a spill.
For the best chance of completely removing hydraulic fluid from asphalt after a spill, it is important to act immediately. Use the following method to remove hydraulic oil and any remaining stains from asphalt:
Clean, dry, absorbent cloths can be substituted for spill absorbents. Use the cloths to wipe up the spill, then discard appropriately.
If a stain remains on the asphalt after the oil has been removed, use a commercial oven cleaner to effectively remove the stain. Spray a generous amount of oven cleaner over the stain and let it set for ten to fifteen minutes. Using a hard bristle brush, scrub the stain and rinse with a hose. Repeat the process until the stain is removed.
Other recommendations include using cola or liquid detergent, instead of oven cleaner, to remove the hydraulic fluid stain from the asphalt. Always follow local ordinances when cleaning up a spill.
Hydraulic fluid is toxic to lawns and gardens, and it will kill existing grass and plants. When the oil soaks into the soil, new grass and plants will also die, or will not grow, when reseeded. While using degreasers on clothing and concrete is an effective removal technique, it causes hydraulic fluids to disperse across grass or lawn space and seep into the soil. As a result, dish detergent should not be used on hydraulic spills on a lawn, as it will only cause more damage.
The only way to restore the lawn to a safe environment is to dig out the contaminated soil and replace it. As with every spill, the quicker the response, the less damage. When the spill occurs, immediately begin removing the sod to prevent the fluid from migrating into the soil. Dispose of any contaminated soil appropriately based on local ordinances.
Because of the harm to soil, grass, and other living things, it’s important to change hydraulic fluid in a space where contamination of grass and soil is very unlikely to occur.
The faster you take action to get hydraulic fluid out of clothes, the better your chance for preventing stain. Always blot any excess oil with a paper towel or clean cloth. Do not rub the oil as it can set the stain in the fabric. Here are several different methods recommended for removing hydraulic fluid stains from your clothes:
It is possible to remove hydraulic oil from your jeans, but it may take several approaches to remove the entire stain. After blotting the stain with a clean, dry cloth or paper towel to remove any excess oil, try one or all of the following options to remove hydraulic fluid from your denim jeans.
Manufacturers' trademarked names, models, part numbers, symbols, and related descriptions are provided for reference only to help you with finding the right aftermarket replacement final drive for your machine. This reference information does not imply that any items for sale are the product of those referenced manufacturers and does not imply that L&M HydraComm LLC is an authorized source nor agent of the referenced machine manufacturers.